This is a brief introduction to the scientists that experimented with frequency healing over the past 100 years. Nikola Tesla, George Lakhovsky, Royal Raymond Rife, Bob Beck, Hulda Clark and many more all contributed to the history of exploring electro-medicine, and the history of zapping. Research these scientists, read their books, and be amazed!
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Your zapper parts are different from Hulda Clark's original parts list. For example, one of your resistors is 39K Ohm and Hulda Clark's is 3.9K Ohm. Why?
In the books published in 2003 and beyond, Hulda Clark updated her zapper schematic for two reasons:
First the addition of the 39K Ohm resistor forces the square wave an extra 1/4 volt above zero so the device is more Positive Offset to keep the wave form far away from any negative output or negative spikes. That is why many zapper vendors claim to use Dr. Clark's "updated" zapper design.
The second reason for the change is that Dr. Clark also published a second low frequency zapper design that has an output of 1 kHz and runs through a North Pole Speaker. The circuit design allows one to simply change the resistors on the 555 CMOS Timer at pin 6/7 to switch from 30 kHz to 1 kHz output. Your parts list is from one of Dr. Clark's first books before she discovered and published the uses for 1 kHz. Her book, Prevention Of All Cancers has so many new experiments and advanced zapper information. I recommend it to anyone interested in taking zapping further than the original 30 kHz device.
I do not know how to solder electronics, do I have to solder this kit?
No soldering required to build the breadboard circuit. When Dr. Clark updated her zapper, she published an easy to build breadboard circuit because there is no soldering required. You just push the resistors and capacitors into place on the breadboard.
What kind of tools will I need to build the zapper kit?
Tools and Supplies Needed for Building a Hulda Clark Breadboard Zapper Kit:
Which way do the resistors and capacitors go in?
Only the 555 CMOS Timer and the Red LED have polarity and go into the breadboard a specific way. As long as the resistors and capacitors are in their correct spots on the breadboard, the circuit will work.
What should I contain my finished circuit in?
The Zapper Kit comes in a small cardboard box that is perfect for holding the finished zapper circuit. Be sure the container you decide to use is made of a nonconductive material. Do not use containers that are metal or metallic. Containers made of plastic, cardboard, or wood are good choices.
Simple Solution: Output Wires and a Cardboard Box
Below we simply poked two holes for two output wires that connect inside to the circuit's ground and positive output. We marked the ground wire (-) and the positive output with a (+). The looped end of the two output wires make connecting mini alligator clip leads and copper pipes easy (copper pipes sold separately).
Here is the inside view. A few tips: notice that all holes in the box are in the back. This is so when you close the box's lid, the part of the lid that tucks in will not interfere with the wires and switch. Holes in box were made using a small nail. The two output wires are knotted behind the holes, so if they are pulled, they do not pull out of the breadboard. LED was bent down carefully and pushed through hole, same with switch above it.
Once you get this far, check the circuit and switch connections. Make sure everything is OK. Turn switch on, and LED should light up. If not, disconnect battery and check connections again. Our zapper kit uses a special breadboard that has foam tape on the back so that you can stick the breadboard onto any smooth dry surface. Get creative, and have fun deciding how to contain your finished breadboard circuit. As with all handmade electronic devices, remember to remove battery when not in use.
Optional Modification: Bolt Terminals
Another optional modification is to add Bolt Terminals to your zapper. You will need two bolts and four nuts (nuts and bolts sold separately). Screw one nut midway on each bolt, insert bolts into the (-) (+) holes on the front of the box. Connect the ground and positive output wires from the circuit to the two bolts on the inside of the box. Make sure that enough plastic insulation has been removed from each output wire so that the bare wire loops around the bolt. Tighten the nut to capture the loop of bare wire. Now it is easy to grip the bolt on the outside with alligator clip leads. This is a simple way to secure the output wires. Tighten bolt so that it hangs out in front to make gripping with the alligator leads easy. Be sure that the bolts do not come in contact with the other electronic parts inside the box. Everything can be ordered at PositiveOffset.com below.
How do I test my zapper after I have built the kit?
Chapter 9 of the Video shows how to test the Hz output on a Multimeter. This circuit should measure a frequency between 20-40 kHz. The peak to peak voltage is about 8 volts. A voltage meter will show 4-5 volts (the 50% duty cycle will give you the average of 8 & 0 = 4).
To check the positive offset square wave on an oscilloscope you could visit a local VCR/TV repair shop. Start out by setting the oscilloscope to the .5 volt division scale. Be sure that the square wave is about 1/4 volt positive offset. There should be NO negative spikes. The duty cycle, voltage, and frequency of the zapper are less important than an absence of negative spikes. For more technical information on the ways Dr. Clark tests and experiments with a zapper, please read the Syncrometer Lab Manual and the Prevention book by Dr. Hulda Clark.
When Hulda Clark published the update to her 30 kHz zapper circuit, she also published a low frequency breadboard circuit for a new experimental device known as the 1000 Hz (1 kHz) Zappicator.
The unit is used along with a North Pole Speaker as part of a Food Zappicator or the Toothbrush Zappicator. The breadboard circuit was cleverly designed so that it was easy to build the 30 kHz or the 1000 Hz device with one simple change.
If you want to build a 1000 Hz unit instead of the 30 kHz zapper, this is all you have to do: In the Build A Zapper Video, the last resistor to be put in place is the 4.7K (yellow-violet-red-gold). Pull out the 4.7K resistor and replace it with two 270K resistors (red-violet-yellow-gold). It's a tight squeeze, so bend each resistor into a hairpin shape as described in the video, and cut the wires even.
Place the first 270K on the breadboard at G9-I10. The second 270K goes from H9-J10. When this circuit is tested on a Multimeter it should read about 1000 Hz (also read as 1 kHz).
When one is setting up a Hulda Clark Food Zappicator be sure to connect the 1000Hz circuit's positive (+) output to the North Pole Speaker's (+) terminal. The ground (-) is not used when setting up a Hulda Clark Food Zappicator.
The speaker can be 4 or 8 ohm two inch speaker. In order for the speaker to be considered a North Pole Speaker, the N on a compass must be attracted to the speaker's top paper face. Contain speaker in a nonmetal box. Wood or plastic is best. Hot glue speaker inside box. Place food/water on top in nonmetal containers. Remove all metal caps. Zap 10-20 minutes. Read the latest books by Hulda Clark for complete details on using a Food Zappicator.Order a Hulda Clark Zapper kit and other parts at: PositiveOffset.com
FREE Build A Zapper video instructions at: ClarkZapper.net
Turn your Breadboard Kit into a 150 Hz - 30 kHz Dial-A-Zap
Zap your pet! Build a Hulda Clark Pet Zappicator
Order a Dual Frequency Hulda Clark Zapper at: ClarkZapper.com
The Hulda Clark Zapper is not licensed by the Food and Drug Administration for use in the cure, mitigation, treatment, or prevention of any disease in humans or animals. The Clark Zapper can only be sold as an experimental device. If you are pregnant or wearing a pacemaker, please do not experiment with a zapper. All information is for educational purposes only. Consult a licensed health professional before attempting any self health program. For more information on how to build and use the zapper, please read the books by Dr. Hulda Clark.